Early this summer Linda packed a 30+ kg backpack with loads of dried food, a tent, sleeping bag, warm clothes and skis. She took the plane to Trondheim where she met up with a friend named Ida and they started skiing / walking south. 20 days later Ida had to leave Linda and another friend from highschool joined Linda for the last week. Here is a translation of Linda's blogg from the Stavanger newspaper.
Note from Linda. 99% of her blog just went through Google translate. She would like to inform you that she does not write that pompously :)
It's summer, and the hiking season in Norway has finally started! This year I decided to set off on a long voyage before the hiking season in Norway had begun, in the beginning of June, mainly because it was when it was possible. I also wanted to explore some of Norway's most famous mountains that I have not had the pleasure of visiting before. Danish Ida, who studied with me in Bø, agreed to join, and we started planning the trip.
Linda and Ida in Trollheimen
We started in Rindal, south of Trondheim, where we were going into Trollheimen. Because it would be this year's summer trip, we did not expect to have to use skis, but a week before departure, we found out that skis had to be included if we wanted to cross Trollheimen. And we certainly did …but they make for heavy backpacks. The packs were loaded with skis, poles, ski boots, skins and gloves. In addition to the somewhat unexpected message about snow, we got a nasty surprise when we saw the bad weather that was reported before the trip. One can say that I was a little nervous in the plane on the way to Trondheim.
Linda in Trollheimen - skis on and off all the while
Despite the fact that things did not quite seem to go our way in the beginning, we set off on the 2nd June full of good cheer. The weather did not cooperate with us through Trollheimen, and the dream of reaching the top of Trollhetta was quickly crushed. Snow conditions gave us great trouble maintaining good progress, it is a lot of hard work skiing on snow that does not carry - for every step you take, you sink through, it is almost like walking up a flight of stairs ... In addition, there were many areas the skis had to be carried over, and it's incredibly hard to bend down to take your skis off and on with such a heavy backpack!
A pretty day in Trollheimen
Fortunately, we made it over Trollheimen, with intentions to return some day with better weather. Furthermore, we were through beautiful Dovrefjell to see musk oxen and to reach the peak of Snøhetta. We were also greeted by a weather forecast that looked noticeably more promising than the one we had been through, and we were excited to embark on the beautiful landscape.
On their way to Gjevillvasshytta (NW of Oppdal)
Snow conditions on the Dovre was much better than we had in Trollheimen, especially when we decided to change our daily rhythm by starting earlier when the snow was still hard enough to carry us better. Dovre was like a fairy tale. We went skiing in brilliant sunshine over the bright, white snow in the gorgeous landscape. We saw a herd of reindeer, just 100-200 meters ahead of us. One morning, a fox ran past us while we ate breakfast on the rocks. We slept under the open sky in a camp 1600 meters above sea level! As a finishing touch, we even got a hike to the highest mountain outside Jotunheimen, majestic Snøhetta at 2286 meters.
Our camp with Snøhetta in the background.
Highest free standing mt in Norway. Beautiful day!!
The next goal was Reinheimen. We didn't have much information in advance about where it was good to hike. Unfortunately we did not have the best weather in the days through Reinheimen, but as with Trollheimen, we decided that we need to return here again.
The view from the top of Snøhetta.
2286 meters above sea level
The fog is coming in fast -
taken from the top of Snøhetta
We finally made it over and set up camp atop a lovely valley looking down on Lom and across to the beautiful Jotunheimen. We were really looking forward to getting into Jotunheimen. Once down in Lom, we said goodbye to our skis, sending them in the mail back to Sandnes. They were a lot of help so far, but now were only making our packs too heavy by carrying them.
Another view from the top of Snøhetta,
the fog still down in the valley
Getting down from Dovrefjell (very foggy, little progress that day)
We saved a couple of days when we were in Dovre, which we enjoyed when we arrived in Jotunheimen. The original plan was to cross Jotunheimen from north to south, but now that we had two extra days, we decided to use them well.
Reinheimen - had to carry skis for 4-5 days
We used two days climbing the summits of the highest and second highest mountain in Norway, Galdhøpiggen (2469 meters) and Glittertinden (2465 m). It was wonderful days, made even better by our new discovery - the vessels that we used to get down the mountain sides! They consisted of a single plastic bag each, which we used to slide down the mountain sides again. I really can not remember having so much fun in ages!
Linda and Ida at Reinheimen
Ida looking dowm Lom-valley and over into Jotunheimen.
The girls were headed into Joutnheimen next
From the top of Galdhøpiggen 2469 meters over sea level.
After a trip across Besseggen we arrived at Gjendesheim. From there Ida had to leave the hike because she had to go to work. We therefore had 21 days together, from Trollheimen to Jotunheimen - thank you for an unforgettable trip!
Linda at the top of Glittertind, the second highest mt in Norway
more of the view from the top of Glittertind
making dinner in the tent
campsite after Glittertind
I got a well deserved resting day on Gjendesheim while I waited for my next hiking companion - Gunnar from high school. He had not hiked before, but was soon trained to use the regular routine I had accustomed myself to the last three weeks. We reviewed the equipment and procedures before we set off on the hike's final destination, the cabin in Valdres. This cabin belongs to Kjetil's grandparents.
Idas feet and the view out their front door.
crossing a river in Jotunheimen.
The last part of the trip through Huldreheimen was a great experience. It feels strange to change hiking companions in the middle of a long hike that way, but the transition went as smoothly as it could go.
Beautiful campsite (after the bugs blew away) located before Besseggen
We had four great days hiking through beautiful Valdres. When we got to the cabin we got a royal reception by Kjetil's grandparents. In addition to good company, we got fresh food for the first time in four weeks (for me). We got hot showers, and slept in soft and comfortable beds. It was a really nice way to end such an adventure, and we really appreciated all the help and care we received the next few days!
another view from the beautiful campsite.
It is a strange experience to go on such long trips. Eventually you do not notice the heavy backpack, the wet shoes and the sore feet. You enter a mode that enables you to keep going as many days as necessary to get where you want to go - given that we have enough food. We are hungry all the time, it is not possible to eat enough to cover our energy needs. We're working about eight hours each day and sleeping basically the rest of the time. Something I especially noticed on this trip, was the daylight. In Trollheimen it felt like the sun was high in the sky 24 hours a day. Also in Dovre the nights were very light. It was hard to notice exactly when the transition came, but further south, in Jotunheimen, there were clear tendencies to sunset at the end of each day. The last bit we had almost dark nights. I also noticed that as we moved south, the dialects changed. I had a great experience and hope to do it again someday!
Linda pointing out a beautiful mountain.
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